Summary
Yanesen, derived from the neighborhoods Yanaka, Nezu, and Sendagi, is a charming and historic area in Tokyo. Known for its preserved traditional atmosphere, ancient shrines like Nezu Shrine, a cat-friendly ambiance, and nostalgic shopping streets like Yanaka Ginza.
Yanesen offers a delightful escape into Tokyo's rich past, providing a unique and peaceful experience for visitors. This time, we went to Hatsumode, a traditional Japanese New Year's custom of visiting a shrine or temple to make the first prayers of the year. We also tried ceramic painting experience, and ate lots of delicious food.
It was a wonderful trip so hope this plan will help your planning!
Unlike the major tourist hubs of Shibuya or Shinjuku, Yanesen rewards slow walking. The area is full of narrow lanes, small temples, old wooden houses, and family-run shops that have been around for decades. If you enjoy Tokyo's old town (shitamachi) atmosphere, this neighborhood is well worth a visit. For more old town exploration, we also wrote about the Asakusa area:
*Please note that information and prices listed are subject to change.
Best Time to Visit Yanesen
Yanesen is enjoyable year-round, but two seasons stand out:
Spring (late March to April) is particularly special. Cherry blossoms line the paths of Yanaka Cemetery, making it one of Tokyo's quieter and more atmospheric hanami spots. At Nezu Shrine, roughly 3,000 azalea bushes of about 100 different varieties bloom from early to late April. The Bunkyo Tsutsuji Matsuri (Azalea Festival) runs from April 1 to April 30, with the azalea garden open from 9:00 to 17:30. Admission to the azalea garden is 500 to 1,000 yen depending on bloom conditions. If you are visiting Tokyo in spring, the cherry blossom spots guide below covers more options:
Autumn brings pleasant walking weather and occasionally some fall color along the temple lanes and cemetery paths.
For the most relaxed experience, visit on a weekday morning. Yanaka Ginza and Nezu Shrine get busier on weekend afternoons.
Getting There and Walking Tips
The most common starting points are Nezu Station (Chiyoda Line) or Nippori Station (JR Yamanote Line). Our itinerary below starts from Nezu Station, but many visitors prefer starting from Nippori and walking south through Yanaka Cemetery and Yanaka Ginza before finishing at Nezu Shrine.
A few practical notes before you go:
- Wear comfortable shoes. The charm of Yanesen is in the walking, and the area covers about 2 to 3 kilometers on foot.
- Most shops on Yanaka Ginza keep their own hours. Many open around 10:00 or 11:00 and close by 17:00 or 18:00.
- Mondays tend to have more closures, so check ahead if there is a specific shop you want to visit.
If you would like a local guide to show you the area's hidden spots, there is a private walking tour available:
Travel Itinerary
11:50am Nezu Station
Take a stroll in Yanesen and enjoy the retro atmosphere! The trip starts at Nezu Station.
Nezu Station is located in Bunkyo-ku, Tokyo. This station is located in an area known as Yanesen, where visitors can enjoy a retro atmosphere. Nezu Station is on the Chiyoda Line and is used as the starting point for the Yanesen stroll.
12:00pm Nezu kamachiku
The Yanesen area is famous for its soba noodle restaurants, but there are also many good udon restaurants! Eventually, we went to the shop originated from Osaka in 1985;
With its historic and chic exterior, the building was designed by Mr. Kengo Kuma, a famous Japanese architect, and relocated a Meiji-era stone warehouse (ishigura) and repurposed it. Looks amazing! We are so excited for the food. Some customers were waiting for the restaurant even before it opened, which shows just how popular it is!
Inside the restaurant, there was a large one-panel table with a view of the courtyard and a tatami room at the top of a small flight of stairs!
The ceiling is high, with a great view! Inside the building is also beautiful.
Menu
There are two types of dishes on the menu: Kama-age Udon or Zaru Udon! Kama-age Udon is especially popular.
Plenty of drinks and snacks are also available.
You can enjoy drinking sake with snacks and finish off with udon noodles.
Kama-age Udon
Kama-age Udon is the one which features thick and chewy noodles served in a bowl with hot cooking water, accompanied by a side bowl of hot dipping sauce (tsuyu). It was so good!
There are four kinds of condiments!
As we added green onions, tenkasu (deep fried dough), shichimi (seven-flavor chili pepper), and ginger in that order, the flavors changed from gentle to increasingly mouthwatering.
We also ordered sake
There is a variety of Japanese sake on the menu, and we couldn't resist ordering some! We had warmed sake as an aperitif and then enjoyed it with udon. What an amazing lunch!
Interior
Having udon in the tatami room is also quite appealing! It is a relaxing space where you are sure to enjoy a leisurely stay.
Seating at large single-board tables with views of the courtyard
Exterior
Located in Nezu, Nezu kamachiku specializes in Japanese sake and Kama-age Udon. The interior of the renovated Meiji-era Ishigura building has a luxurious and chic atmosphere. You can enjoy the outstanding quality of udon noodles, which have been selected as a Michelin Bib Gourmand. The restaurant offers large single-board table seats with a courtyard view and tatami room seating. Known for its popularity, customers often wait eagerly before the restaurant opens.
1:30pm Nezu Shrine
After enjoying udon, we came to Nezu Shrine for Hatsumode! There are torii gates on the Nezu Shrine ground. We were pleasantly surprised to find torii gates in Tokyo! The sight of the red torii gates lined up in a row was truly amazing.
In spring, azaleas bloom across the hillside garden, and the shrine hosts the annual Bunkyo Tsutsuji Matsuri (Azalea Festival) throughout April. Around 3,000 azalea bushes of roughly 100 varieties create layers of pink, red, white, and purple across the slope. Even outside the festival period, the shrine grounds are worth exploring for the koi pond and the Romon gate, which is designated as an Important Cultural Property.
The grounds of the shrine are larger than we expected!
First pray of the year
We both made a wish for a good year ahead.
After visiting the shrine, let's see the luck for this year!
We were a bit nervous to look at what the omikuji (fortune paper) says.
Torii gate next to the main shrine
We've been through the torii gate.
Romon (Important Cultural Property)
The two-story Romon gate at the entrance dates back to 1706 and is one of the few Edo-period shrine structures remaining in Tokyo.
Nezu Shrine is located in Bunkyo-ku, Tokyo. It is famous for its azalea blossoms in spring, and the azalea festival is also held there. The shrine pavilions are beautiful, and the omikuji (fortune) is also popular. In addition, the shrine has been introduced in magazines and on television, making it a favorite spot for many people.
2:20pm Yanaka Ginza
If you come to Yanesen, you definitely want to check out Yanaka Ginza Shopping Street! It is a historic shopping street that was established around 1945 and has about 60 stores, including restaurants and general stores.
Before heading into the shopping street, stop at the top of the Yuyake Dandan stairs. This short staircase connects Nippori to Yanaka Ginza and is one of Tokyo's well-known sunset spots. On a clear evening, the sun drops right between the rooftops at the far end of the street. Even during the daytime, the view from the top gives you a nice overview of the shopping street below.
There were so many restaurants good for take-away and walking around, it was hard to decide what to eat! There were not only old-fashioned restaurants, but also stylish restaurants that seem to have been established recently!
There is a cat object in the shopping street!
Take a quick snap! The shopping district is known for its cats, and there are even some cat-themed foods available.
Atmosphere of the Town
Yanaka Ginza Shopping Street in Taito-ku, Tokyo, is a historic shopping street created around 1945, with about 60 stores, including restaurants and general stores. The street has a charming atmosphere and is a recommended spot for those who want to eat and walk around. Yuyake Dandan, which leads to Yanaka Ginza Shopping Street, is also famous as a sunset spot. The area is crowded with both Japanese and foreigners, with not only traditional stores but also stylish stores that have recently been established.
2:30pm Niku No Suzuki
The first stop to grab some food and enjoy a stroll around; Menchi Katsu (Ground Meat Cutlet) looked so good! This store was established in 1933, selling fried food such as croquette and menchi katsu. Perfect for eating while walking around the street.
For take-away, "torotoro yaki buta" is also recommended. They use 3 different secret sauces and take 4 hours to produce!
Genki Menchi katsu: 250 yen and Miso Buta Katsu
The most popular one is "Genki Menchi katsu". It is said to be made from minced pieces of high quality meat! The batter is crispy and the inside has the umami of the meat! The sweetness of the onions also goes perfect.
"Miso Buta Katsu" makes you crave rice--never getting tired of that miso taste!
The shop
Niku no Suzuki is a butcher shop established in 1933 in Nishinippori, Arakawa-ku, Tokyo, selling fried foods such as korokke (Japanese croquette) and menchi katsu, which are perfect for eating while walking around. "Torotoro char siu" is made with three secret sauces that take four hours to produce.
3:30pm Tamaru Tamaru
The second stop is a rest spot specializing in sweet potato snacks!
It was cold, so we decided to have a rest inside for a while.
Inside the shop is small, with three tables. It is a perfect place to take a break during the shopping!
We were warmly welcomed.
Chonmage Imo Set: 800 yen
Yanaka's famous "Chonmage Imo" is available. It is a sweet potato with sesame seeds on top.
The sweetness of the sweet potato was amazing.
Wide variety of beverages available
Note that you must order one drink per adult when dining inside the shop.
A single item of Chonmage Imo is priced at 350 yen.
Menu
Tamaru Tamaru is a sweets shop located on Yanaka Ginza Shopping Street. The most famous specialty is "Chonmage Imo," a sweet potato coated with sesame seeds. The interior of the shop has the atmosphere of a rest area, and you will be warmly welcomed.
4:00pm Cafe Nekoemon
After a 10-minute walk, we arrived to the cafe where visitors can try Maneki-neko painting experience in a renovated 90+ year old Japanese style house! It is going to be an unforgettable memory for sure.
The painting experience takes 30 to 60 minutes, and you can participate at any time if seats are available. However, online reservations are recommended.
Original Maneki-neko
Let's start painting Maneki-neko and make your original one!
While having cat-themed sweets
You can have a painting experience while having coffee or tea and cat-themed cute sweets.
Maneki-neko Painting Experience
The cafe is also available without the painting experience.
Menu
Cafe Nekoemon, located in Yanaka, Taito-ku, Tokyo, is a cafe where you can experience painting Maneki-neko in a renovated 90+ year Japanese old-style house. You can enjoy making your own Maneki-neko while having a cup of tea. Open from 11:00 am to 6:00 pm and closed on Mondays.
5:30pm Ueno Sakuragi Atari
After enjoying the painting experience for about an hour, the last stop on the trip was a complex of three renovated old-style houses built in 1938!
The sight of the historic building tucked away at the end of the street is beautiful. The unique atmosphere of old town was really nice!
Map
There are beer hall, bakery, olive shop, and common areas.
Ueno Sakuragi Atari is a complex facility located in Taito-ku, Tokyo, in a renovated 1938 Japanese-style house that houses a beer hall, bakery, and general merchandise stores. The atmosphere of the old house is appealing, and events are held on weekends. The shop is a fashionable space that attracts customers from Europe and the U.S. with its wide selection of goods.
5:30pm Yanaka Beer Hall
Cheers at the beer hall inside Ueno Sakuragi Atari! You can enjoy "Yanaka Beer", unique craft beers, and stylish drinks that you can find only here.
Interior
Stylish atmosphere with the warmth of an old house.
The old posters, newspapers and other decorations are also beautiful.
The moment we walked into the shop, we felt like we had stepped back in time!
2nd floor
The second floor has tatami seating! Cozy like a grandma's house.
Stylish beer server
It's tubed directly from the chilled keg, so it's still ice-cold even in the summer!
The best beer.
Yanaka Beer: 750 yen
The taste is amazing!
Yanaka Beer has four kinds!
There is also a set of drinks to try, allowing you to taste each one and compare them.
Yanaka Beer's Gyusuji Nikomi (Stewed Beef Tendons): 660 yen
Gyusuji Nikomi is highly recommended! Gyusuji (beef tendons) is so tender and delicious that it melts in your mouth.
Atari set B: 825 yen
Edamame fried in butter and Frankfurter sausages roasted in an earthenware pot with smoked cheese! Edamame is a savory favorite.
A wide variety of drinks and snacks!
Menu
There are also set meal menus for lunch.
Yanaka Beer Hall, located in Uenosakuragi, Taito-ku, Tokyo, is a beer hall where you can enjoy Yanaka Beer and other original craft beers. The interior has a stylish atmosphere with the warmth of an old style house. It is open from 11:00 am to 8:00pm and closed on Mondays.
After Your Yanesen Stroll
Yanesen connects naturally to Ueno, which is just one station or a 15-minute walk away. From Nezu Station, take the Chiyoda Line one stop to Yushima, or walk east toward Shinobazu Pond and Ueno Park. The Ueno area has a different energy with its museums, Ameyoko market, and lively izakaya streets. If you want to continue the old town food experience into the evening, a local food tour in the Ueno area is a good option:
For those who enjoy the nightlife side of Tokyo's old town, there is also a bar hopping tour that covers the Yanesen and Ueno area:
