吉靴房, a handcraft shoemaker based in Nishijin, Kyoto, has announced a new product called the Kaku-Koo (革公緒), a leather zori sandal that draws on more than 20 years of shoemaking expertise and philosophy. The Kaku-Koo applies techniques and knowledge developed through making Japanese-style leather shoes to the traditional thong-strap footwear (hanao) format.
The design combines the structure of conventional zori with the question of what form is most natural for walking, approached through the lens of both formal Japanese dress, casual Western dress, and fashion.
The Story Behind the Kaku-Koo
吉靴房's founder, Nojima, grew up practicing kendo — a Japanese martial art in which practitioners move barefoot, developing a close awareness of how the foot connects to the ground. That sensitivity carried into everyday life, where he came to favor wearing zori. With a belief that "the thong-strap sandal is the most refined form for outdoor footwear, stripped to its essentials," he brought together nearly a quarter-century of shoemaking knowledge to develop the Kaku-Koo.
Key Features
High-Quality Thong Strap by a Specialist Craftsperson
The hanao (thong strap) is made from cowhide and crafted by an artisan who specializes in hanao for geta clogs. The long-cultivated technique of this craftsperson ensures stability and comfort, making the strap the centerpiece of the sandal's wearing experience.
Left-Right Asymmetric Design
Conventional geta and zori are symmetrical, which allows them to be worn on either foot and suits a wide range of wearers. The Kaku-Koo retains these advantages while adopting a left-right differentiated design — a perspective borrowed from shoe construction. The shape follows the natural contour of the foot, producing a comfortable fit and a clean silhouette.
A Design Philosophy That Combines East and West
The Kaku-Koo merges Japanese manufacturing techniques — which work in harmony with nature and materials — with the mathematically precise, skeleton-and-gait-based approach of Western shoemaking. The result offers both cushioning and a gentle feel underfoot, reducing strain during daily use and delivering natural comfort alongside versatility in styling.
Built for Repair
The sandal is constructed so it can be repaired, rather than discarded after wear. It is presented as footwear meant to develop character over time alongside its wearer.
Product Specifications
The sole is made from vegetable-tanned leather (nume leather) and is available in two shapes: angular (角型) and round (丸型). Thong strap colors can be discussed with the maker.
- Name: Kaku-Koo (革公緒)
- Price: ¥35,200 (tax included)
- Sizes: 22.0 cm to 28.0 cm
The Kaku-Koo suits both traditional Japanese dress (wafuku) and everyday Western clothing, and carries a refined, composed quality well-suited to ceremonial or formal occasions, while remaining approachable enough for regular wear.
About the Maker: Nojima Kosuke
Nojima Kosuke is the shoemaker behind 吉靴房. Selected awards and achievements include:
- Kyoto Design Award 2010 — "御沓" (selected)
- Kyoto Design Award 2011 — "単皮" (selected)
- Japan Leather Award 2017 — "五枚丈" (selected)
- K-DESIGN AWARD 2023 — "チプシン足袋" (selected)
- Japan Leather Award 2023 — "チプシン足袋" (selected)
- 5th Japanese Culture Grand Prix — "五枚丈革台月夜" (selected)
- Kyoto Design Award 2025 — "Gaitta (よなぬき)" (selected)
- London Design Award 2025 — "Gaitta (よなぬき)" (Silver)
- 19th Annual International Design Awards — "Gaitta (よなぬき)" (Bronze)
Notable achievements include being featured on NHK WORLD in 2025, providing footwear for film and television productions, and collaborating with multiple brands on co-branded works.
